Which Tank should I Buy?
Which Tank
Should I Buy?
Two great ways to add range. They just get there differently. Here's how the two big-tank options actually behave on the bike so you can pick the one that fits how you ride.
Both tanks add serious fuel range, and honestly you can't go wrong with either. The real difference comes down to where they carry the fuel and how the mounting hardware is built. That's what changes the feel and the long-term wrench life.
Side By Side
| Spec |  |
 |
|---|---|---|
| Fuel Position | Carried higher, raises the center of gravity | Low in the wings, drops the center of gravity |
| Handling | Can feel top-heavy when full | Planted, racier feel |
| Radiator Airflow | More airflow to the radiators, runs cooler | Less airflow to the radiators, runs warmer |
| Mount Threads | Molded plastic, easier to strip | Brass inserts, can spin loose |
| Dry Brake | In stock from Taco Moto | Special order |
How Big Should You Go?
Straight up: a bigger tank doesn't make your bike sip fuel, it just lets you carry more of it. So the size call really comes down to how far you ride between fill-ups versus how much weight you want to haul. Match it to your riding.
Going Bigger.
- More range, fewer stops. The move for big desert days, dual-sport adventures, and remote loops where the next gas station is a long way out.
- Peace of mind. No doing fuel math in your head 60 miles from the truck. You just ride.
- More weight to carry. Fuel's not light, about 6 pounds a gallon. A full big tank is most noticeable up high on the Acerbis or low in the wings on the IMS, and it lightens up as you burn it down.
- Costs more, feels wider. Bigger tanks run more money and can feel a touch wider at the knees than stock.
Staying Smaller.
- Lighter and more nimble. Less fuel weight means a bike that flicks around easier, and you feel it most in tight, technical stuff.
- Slimmer and cheaper. Stock or smaller keeps the ergos you already know and keeps money in your pocket.
- Less range. More fuel stops, or you're strapping a jug or dump can on for the long days.
- Range anxiety. On long or remote rides you end up watching the odometer instead of the trail.
How Much Range Do You Actually Need?
That depends on your bike and how you ride it. We break down real-world mileage and range for the Honda and the KTMs in a separate sheet, worth a read before you settle on a size.
Read: The Truth To Fuel Mileage →Wait, What's A Dry Brake?
It's a quick-fill fuel coupler. Think of it as a spill-proof gas cap that lets you dump fuel in fast. The half in the photo is the receiver, and it bolts onto your tank where the cap normally lives. A matching probe rides on the spout of your dump can.
Both halves are spring-loaded and self-sealing. They only open when you press them firmly together, and they snap shut the second you pull apart. That's the "dry" in dry brake: no dripping, no spilling, no fuel on your hot bodywork, even mid-pour. That spring and scissor mechanism you see on the back of the receiver is what holds the internal valve shut and sets the sealing pressure.
Push the probe in, fuel dumps in fast, pull it out, both sides seal instantly. No cap to unscrew, no funnel, no watching for overflow.
Why racers run them: in a desert or cross-country race, the seconds you save in the pits add up. IMS rates their system at roughly 4 gallons in about 7 seconds.
~4 gal in ~7 sec · IMS claimDo you need one? If you're mostly trail riding or out for a casual weekend loop, honestly no. A dry brake is race gear. It earns its keep when you're running timed pit stops, not on a Saturday putt.
Good To Know Before You Buy
The receiver is only half the system. You also need the matching dump can and probe to actually use it. And the brands don't cross over, so an IMS receiver mates to an IMS probe, not to another brand's. Match your can to whatever receiver you run. One more thing: as fuel rushes in, air has to get out, so keep your tank vent clear or fast fills turn into slow, splashy ones.
Why We Push Dry-Brake-Ready Tanks.
Even if you never line up for a race, we still lean toward the dry-brake-ready tanks. That bigger opening does two things we like.
- Easier access into the tank. The bigger dry-brake opening gives you the whole top of the tank to work with. Installing or servicing the fuel pump gets easier, and general access into the tank beats fighting through a stock filler neck.
- Room for a lower-profile cap. A dry-brake-ready tank lets you swap in a lower-profile fuel cap assembly, cleaning up the top of the tank instead of running the taller stock setup.
Want The Dry Brake Setup?
Acerbis dry-brake setups are in stock at Taco Moto, so you're not waiting on a thing. The IMS dry-brake option is a special order, so plan ahead if that's part of your pit program. Not sure which fitting you're running? Give us a shout and we'll sort it before you order.
Either Way: Don't Overtighten
Plastic threads strip and brass inserts can spin, so the same rule covers both tanks. Snug the mounting bolts down firm and stop. You do not need to crank on them, and cranking is exactly how you turn a good tank into a warranty conversation.
So Which One?
Go Acerbis if...
You want the tank that runs cooler, you'd rather not deal with the low-CG heat trade, and you want dry-brake ready out of the box. Easy button.
Go IMS if...
You want that low center of gravity and the planted feel that comes with carrying fuel down low, and you like the idea of brass thread inserts.